Things in the neighborhood

In addition to Moscow's central mosque, the neighborhood where I am staying is also home to CERAGEM. For those of you unfamiliar with this place, google it. Basically some rich South Korean has littered the world with centers of massage beds which you may use for free. THe beds are automatic and have some magic heat and jade rollers -- all designed to heal you of anything that ails you. I dragged Liz there today to see how it compares to our local in Salt Lake. First difference, you have to get past the requisite Soviet style guard man - not difficult, just a card to fill out and flash. You then emerge in one of Russia's run down courtyards not visible from the street. We took a wrong doorway and ended up in some other "fitness" room where there were all sorts of primitive stretch and strength apparatus littered about. Finally found our place which was much bigger than the one in SL (30+ beds). Despite the expected session times as advertised, there were a couple of figures who seemed permanently ensconed. TN|BC

Not knowing the conventions

In the space of under 12 hours I managed to embarrass myself in both a casino and a monastery. And that my friends is the beauty of Moscow. Friday night we were the guests of a friend who runs the biggest casino in town. We had a lovely meal and then thought we'd have a go at a game. Having never strayed beyond slots in Vegas, I was thrilled when friend summoned a croupier to open a roulette table for "a couple of high rollers" (that would be me and Liz). Our total incompetence astounded the manager, croupier and the people playing black jack at the next table. But we did win $30. Beginners luck. The next morning we went with the children to Novospaskii monsastery. It was a last minute decision and we arrived without the requisite head scarves. Never mind. In front of the guard booth there were two laundry baskets of loaners. I picked out a garish number and as I wrestled with it, Liz's husband Vasya handed me a different one. It was bigger and was proving really tricky to get around my head when I realized that everyone was laughing. Turns out it was actually a wrap around skirt to cover my inappopriate trousers.

Brides on parade

As some of you know, I am in Moscow to record examples of Russian urban legends, but I'm game for pretty much anything folklorique. So imagine my delight yesterday, when visiting our old neighborhood, to get a blast of modern wedding ritual. The bridge over the canal near the Tretyakov gallery has become the place for brides to come and be photographed. Possibly because it is beautiful with lots of water fountains, but also because there is a non-through road on which one can easily leave a Hummer limo. There is also a park with inviting spots for brides to be photographed cradling live doves. I kid you not. Anyway since I was last here the bridge has sprouted a tree of "locks of eternity". This is a tradition I am not familiar with. Basically the happy couple brings a padlock with their names and wedding date etched and locks it to the tree. I have pictures but no way to upload so you'll have to use your imagination for now.

Dinner Moscow Style

Last night I met up with some friends for dinner. We sat on the patio of a Georgian place on the Arbat - all very charming until that (inevitable) Russian moment of drunken youth vomiting en passant. He never slowed so left a trail 15 feet long for all to enjoy mid dinner. Ah Moscow. We then got to watch the passing hordes squeal and avoid or tromp obliviously through the man's last supper.
Liz gets back this afternoon from her mountaineering expedition. She called last night to say that she had fainted from altitude sickness and had to be carried off the mountain. Looking forward to all the stories over a nice dinner this evening.

Jet lag

Am suffering extremely delayed jet lag. After a swimmingly easy adjustment in England I am now back on Salt Lake time. Finally fall asleep between 3 and 4am and fight to get out of bed before noon. Probably doesn't help that dusk lasts until midnight and by 4 it is already dawning.
Relieved to have Alison's clarification about from whence she is not losing hair. Enjoyed the pics of mum on her blowup pal.
I am about to head out on a photography project I have dreamed up.

MOSCOW

It is pouring with rain. It rains in Russia like everything else Russian - with huge excess-- A cloudburst that results in immediate street flooding. I left the flat to come read my email and immediately regretted my choice of footwear. There was, just outside the gate, a sea of water. Helpfully someone had arranged some broken bits of brick into stepping stones and I joined the queue of people waiting to demonstrate their sense of balance. I spent most of today just lounging around the flat. Towards late afternoon I was drawn to the windows on one side of the apartment where I saw a sea of kneeling men at prayer. There appears to be a makeshift mosque down there - I shall go and investigate tomorrow. A little later out the other windows there was something transpiring in an embassy compound - It looked like a wedding or maybe a theatrical performance. THe bride wasn't wearing white but something huge and golden and at one point a man in a suit picked her up and twirled about with her. Then it started to rain and everyone ran inside.
I intend to post regularly because this place continues to be as weird as always. You just venture outside and are amazed.

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